“I can’t say I’d ever previously longed to nosh in the shadow of downtown on the market fish, a whole fried red porgy—propped up on its belly and generously stuffed with papaya salad—even as a Southern Pacific freight train rumbled and squeaked past my table. But now I positively crave such exotic experiences, which is no small compliment to Poitín. “

 Scott Vogel | houstoniamag.com

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